Ask A Mechanic: April 6, 2007

Bob Weber
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More mechanical wisdom from Bob Weber

Learning to drive stick

Q-When I was 18 I bought a Dodge van with a “slant-six” and three-on-the-tree manual transmission. I signed the papers, started the engine, drove about ten feet and immediately dropped one front wheel into a pothole at the curb. There I was, blocking the dealer's driveway and sticking three feet into traffic, killing the engine repeatedly.

After a few minutes a mechanic came out, drove the van to the corner without saying a word, then got out and walked back to the dealership. That was my entire training on driving stick; by the time I had driven home I had figured out the basics on my own. I got over 50,000 miles on the original clutch.

So tell your readers to just get in and drive. The real secret of learning to drive stick is that it's not difficult at all. (And I wish Chrysler had kept the slant-six in production!)

A-I loved the slant-six, too. What a workhorse. And, it never seemed to break down. I wouldn’t be surprised there are a couple still running strong all by themselves in a junkyard somewhere. By the way, according to legend, it was called that because the engine was so tall, it had to be canted to the right to fit under the hood. It had a long stroke and good torque. Maybe gear-changing greenhorns will take your advice, buy an old Plymouth Duster and learn to drive a stick.

Seized hood

Q-After opening the hood of my 1999 Mercury Sable, it appears to be stuck in the upright open position. How hard are you supposed to pull to get the hood closed? If I pull too hard will I break anything? Can you think of anything on the hinge that might be a problem?

A-Don’t force it. Although the hinges won’t break, the hood will buckle requiring expensive body work. Spray some WD-40 or similar penetrating oil on all of the hinge’s pivot points and wait for them to loosen up. You may have to rock the hood back and forth in baby steps until if frees up. Just don’t rush it.

Chicken soup for your VW

Q-My '98 VW Jetta with the 2.8-liter V-6 engine has developed a slight ping. It has around 74,000 miles on it and will ping in the lower rpm ranges with a light to medium throttle. I use the highest grade fuel available. Someone mentioned to me that this particular engine is prone to carbon buildup, and recommended a product called Seafoam to clean out all of the carbon. Is this product safe for O2 sensors, catalytic converters, and the engine?

A-Seafoam probably won’t hurt anything, but I can’t say it will do any good either. A friend of ours likes to call it “chicken soup for the engine” and it is very similar to Marvel Mystery Oil. Seafoam is very light oil, sometimes called a top engine lubricant, that has been popular in the big smile states — those along the coasts — with boaters. I have seen no empirical data about its performance, just lots of anecdotes. I use Marvel Mystery Oil in my air tools and they work fine.

Oil change intervals

Q--You get many inquiries regarding the oil change indicators used by manufacturers and how reliable they are. My question is, can a person reasonably calculate an appropriate oil change interval themselves provided their driving habits/routes are the same almost everyday. For example, I use my car primarily for commuting to work and encounter the same traffic conditions daily. My daily commute entails 72 miles of highway driving (86 percent) and 12 miles (14 percent) of stop-and-go driving. Is it possible to calculate a proper oil change interval using that data?

A--I have never seen a formula for calculating oil change intervals, but I can tell you that the computer uses much more data than the number of highway and local miles driven. It records throttle positions, acceleration rates, engine temperature, engine revolutions and other data. Unless you have an oil change monitor, change it based on time and mileage like you’ve always done.

Jumping data hurdles

Q--Can jumper cables hooked to a live battery or a 2-amp charger be used as a memory saver when changing a battery in a newer model auto? I am aware of the memory savers sold with a 9-volt, but wouldn't the above ideas also work?

A--Yep. In fact I use the jumper-cables-and-spare-battery technique all the time. While some trickle chargers may work, others will turn themselves off if they don’t sense a sufficient load, which can happen when you disconnect the battery cables from the battery you are replacing.

Aired out

Q--I have a 2001 B ravada with aluminum wheels. The tires are always losing air. Is there something that will stop the leaking?

A--I have seen several technical service bulletins from GM regarding porosity with alloy wheels. The fix usually involves locating the leak then sealing it with silicone room temperature vulcanizing (RTV) sealant. Some people have reported success by shooting a can of flat-tire sealant into the problem wheels, but I don't endorse that, although it is much simpler and for the money, worth a try.

Due to the large volume, Bob Weber is unable to answer most questions sent to The Car Connection each month. Some may be answered directly, where possible, and others will be included in future columns if the topic is deemed interesting. Be sure to include your real name and full address (city, state, province, country, etc.) when sending your questions.

Weber, a self-proclaimed swell guy, is an ASE-Certified Master Automobile Technician, freelance writer, and former editor of Super Automotive Service magazine. His column, "Motormouth," appears weekly in the Chicago Tribune. He enjoys good tequila, good cigars, and good times. A chemistry school dropout, he still concocts compounds in the kitchen and makes a mean pot of chili. He and his wife live near the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia.

E-mail Bob your questions at Mechanic@thecarconnection.com.