Fixing Your Car Cheaply

Today's cars are more reliable than ever. But when something does go wrong, the fix can cost a lot more than it used to, too. Here are some practical tips to keep your money in your pocket — and your car on the road:

Fuel system: Modern cars all use some form of electronic fuel injection. These systems have fewer moving parts and are less maintenance-intensive than the carburetors used in years past (which required semi-annual adjustment and frequent cleaning). But problems can still develop, chiefly clogged or dirty injectors.

While it may end up being necessary to have the system flushed by a professional mechanic using special injector cleaning equipment, you can sometimes get the same results yourself — and for a lot less cash — by adding a bottle of store-bought fuel injector cleaner (Gumout, STP, etc.) to the tank at each fill-up for 2-3 fill-ups. The extra dose of detergent additives in the cleaner may cure your rough-running/hard-starting problem without an expensive trip to Mr. Goodwrench. There's no risk of making the problem worse or harming your engine, so it's worth a shot before giving up and turning the problem over to a pro — and having him turn over a big bill to you.

Exhaust: If you really don't want to pay a lot for that muffler, why not install that puppy yourself? Many people don't realize they can buy pre-bent, ready-to-install factory-style replacement exhaust components (and full systems) over the counter at most auto parts stores — everything from the head pipe that bolts up to the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter and tailpipe.

If you don't mind spending a little "sweat equity," you can save hundreds of dollars replacing your won't-pass-inspection rusted out pipes with a set of new ones. Often, it's just a section of the system that needs replacing. For example, a rotted-out muffler or catalytic converter can be grafted in. It just requires some unbolting and sawing (either by hand with a hacksaw or with a Sawzall), removal of the bad section and the bolting/clamping on of the new section/part. The key thing here is not having to bend/force fit generic, one-size-fits-all components; the pre-bent parts are ready-to-install and will fit where they're supposed to. If you have the ability to change your own oil and spark plugs, you can handle this job, too.

Serpentine belt: Many new cars and trucks come with a single "serpentine" belt that drives all the accessories (water pump, alternator, power steering, A/C) instead of single belts for each accessory, as was common in the past. The serpentine belt looks pretty intimidating, but replacing it is actually a lot easier than replacing old-style belts. Instead of having to loosen multiple hard-to-get-at mounting bolts and then leveraging each accessory in to get the old belt off, then out again to tighten up the new one, there's just a single tensioner pulley to deal with. Getting the old belt off is usually no more complex than using a wrench to take the tension off the tensioner pulley and slipping the old belt off.

The tensioner pulley is usually very easy to identify — it's the "idler" pully not driving/connected to an engine accessory such as the power steering pump or alternator, etc. It will have a stud/bolt that you can get a wrench on to exert leverage, which will move the pulley enough to release the tension on the belt and allow you to take it off. Installing the new pulley is just as easy. After making sure all the pulleys are clean/free of debris (clean if necessary), work the new pulley around each accessory (there is almost always an underhood sticker with a diagram to show you how — but check first before you remove the old pulley and make your own diagram if the sticker's not there).

The final step is using your wrench to manipulate the tensioner enough to work the belt around it, then releasing the tensioner once you've got the belt on. (Be sure the belt is centered properly on each pulley and aligned correctly, etc. before you start the engine.)  The best part is there's no need for further adjustment; the tensioner takes up the necessary slack and you're good to go. You also just saved yourself at least a half-hour's worth of "labor" charges, usually $40 or $50.

Used vs. new parts: A big dilemma for owners of older/high-mileage vehicles is whether it makes sense economically speaking to (for example) spend $1500 on a new transmission when the car itself isn't worth more than $2000. But the alternative — throwing away the car and digging deep for a replacement — can entail even more expense than biting the bullet and fixing what you've got. It's a real Catch-22. However, there is a third way: used but perfectly serviceable replacement parts.

You can buy everything from complete used engines (with wiring harnesses and all accessories) to small parts such as alternators and taillight housings at used parts retailers. These places "part out" wrecked cars (salvaging undamaged/still-working mechanical and body parts), re-selling them to people looking for a low-cost way to keep their vehicles running. The parts are typically a fraction of what they'd be new, and there's often a guarantee that the part works. You'll get your money back (or another replacement part) if it doesn't. Installing a perfectly good low-mileage tranny from a wrecked car for $500 vs. paying a shop $1500 to put a brand-new one in your $2000 car is a pretty sweet deal. Look in the Yellow Pages under "auto parts" (see the sub-section on salvage/used parts, etc.).